CHINATOWN IN SAN FRANCISCO (SFO)

Romancing The East in The West




Husband and I were in Chinatown during the first week of January this year and the last week as well, from January 23 to 27. We stayed at the Royal Pacific Inn.

The Royal Pacific Inn is nothing great or big, just your typical hotel with bed and bath. But it happens to be located at the center of Chinatown, along Broadway Street where jazz bars are sprouting, cafes, bistros are all over; sex shops and neon lights are blaring brilliantly at night. Broadway is close to Stockton Street and buses pass by here regularly; one gets to go to downtown SFO with ease by taking the bus number 30 or 45. It's a dollar and fifty cents, good for another way for two hours. I tried it and it was great! Coming back to our hotel, I only had to walk to Third Street near Market St. and avail the same bus again. It’s very slick.

In Chinatown, we went to eat in different restaurants-Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and Italian. We did the rounds of different places on foot like the North Beach (a.k.a. the Italian section), Broadway, Grant, Pacific, Stockton, Financial District, Jackson and Union Square.

Our frequent walkathon was fun. Blue-eyed husband and I enjoyed this immensely while chatting about our forth-coming move into the city.

DOWNTOWN SAN FRANCISCO
We also enjoyed our walking time downtown and we love the lovely Victorian homes and apartments in Lower Nob Hill. They are so beautiful and awesome with buildings dating back to the late 18th century when the city was developing. Some were painted in bold colors whereas a few were muted in tone. Likewise, they remain to be absolutely gorgeous. We laughed quite a bit, too, while walking because we struggled with our weight moving uphill and downhill; but somehow, we felt resurrected for having done our share of cardio-vascular exercise.

FREQUENT TRAVELER
January month was a busy one for us since husband had scheduled trips to Santa Rosa, Marin County, Sonoma and Napa Valley and with these trips came a lot of prep work on both of us. Driving to these localities make San Francisco a strategic place to stay since it is right in the middle of
these counties. During this period of frequent travels and business trips, husband decided to choose to stay in Chinatown area in terms of proximity to his territory. And since then, he waived to stay in Marriott for this which was fine.

PIGS, PORK, HOGS-WHATEVER YOU CALL THEM
Along Jackson Street in Chinatown, we spotted a 12-wheeler truck, parked at the busiest section near the small bridge. There, we saw an interesting sight of newly butchered pigs being transported out of the truck. We got glued gazing at them for they were piled like pyramids in massive volume. After a while, husband snapped a photo for our souvenir.

EXOTIC FOODS: SOFT TURTLES, FROGS, OCTOPUS AND ABALONE
In Chinatown’s marketplace, they also sell live turtles with soft shells and toads, apart from crabs and fish, abalone and octopus. Dried sea-horses are added up in their Chinese soup dishes so one sees an abundance of these. The soft turtles are alive when sold while the already chopped ones are really freaky to look at as one could see their inner organs still attached to them, head is excluded (thank heavens), but they move in synchronized beat. Ayayay! Turtles are about a foot in length. Some Chinese merchants would press the flesh of these poor creatures and the semi-dead turtles respond naturally by moving their chopped body parts in pulsating beat- sometimes syncopated, too! Yikes! It was a horrific sight looking at them but blue-eyed husband was having a ball in irony to what I was experiencing at the moment. I was scared to death! He even asked if he could buy a piece and if I’d cook it for him?

“No way and over my dead body!” Well, that was my reply!

THE HOTEL PROPRIETRESS
One time the WIFI was not strong enough for me to get an internet connection in our hotel room so I went down at the lobby and checked out my mails. One morning, an old Chinese lady was sitting right in front of me in another sofa. She was chatty, nice and funny, too. She said, she just finished her lunch and and paid only $2.00 for it!

"Beef and rice!" She said it well then had a good laugh. "Haha!"

I was thinking,

“Boy, where the hell did she get that? This is not even Bangkok or China.”
Anyhow, she was amused with me and asked how I was and where I was staying. I said I was in room 309. So our conversation led from one topic to another until it arrived to this subject: turtles.

"Ah, we Chinese we eat everything! We eat all you could imagine other people would dare not eat!"

She added,"During my time here, about sixty years ago, they served nice food in restaurants. They have whole boneless chicken stuffed with bird's nest. They don't do that anymore! And we also eat turtles! Hahaha-haha!"

(Gee, I had goose bumps when she mentioned the word turtles!)OMG! I easily recalled that morning I first saw the turtles at the market. I cannot believe she loves that-those, eeks- freaky, poor, turtles, OMG!!

After we chat, I realized I couldn’t ever be a Chinese! After we chat, I also found out later that she owns the hotel (sigh). Oui!

CHINESE MERCHANTS
In Chinatown, we observed how crude are the Chinese in dealing with foreign customers. They basically scream when queries are raised about the price of an item or service. They snap their fingers or tap their hands in staccato on the table to give you an answer then expect you right away to leave, once you are done with your business. Apparently, this is their way of communication because of their failure to translate from Chinese to English. In truth, they also lack finesse in dealing with their non-Chinese clients. And for an American like my husband who is so used to the American way of handling customers with courtesy, it was quite a culture shock for him to see this done. With me being Asian makes it all so easy to comprehend this as I have been exposed to their culture a long time ago.

NOSTALGIA
Along Ross Ally on Jackson Street, we discovered a humble looking little fortune cookie factory. We knew we were on the right track in going there because we saw a queue of people (mostly foreigners) trying to get to the factory. We got there simply by following the aroma of the cookies. We bought cookies each time we went there. They were cheap and for a dollar (or less), one is given more than one's hands could handle. We enjoyed window-shopping while munching our freshly baked cookies. The scent was so sweet; it was a reminiscent of the ice cream cone I used to eat when I was a child. It was called “apa” in Filipino and almost synonymous to the fortune cookies in aroma, taste and texture but the only difference is the shape. The fortune cookies are round while those I had back in the Philippines were in cone shape. Otherwise, both tasted the same!

GOOD BUY- FOR A GOOD PRICE
In Chinatown, we also bought each a San Francisco rain jacket (one that has the Golden Gate graphics embroidered in it). The price was good for $16.00 a piece. It is thick and good to wear when the weather gets chilly. They are awesome, in two-color motif, reversible in design and use. The outer fabric is made of waterproof material while the inside is made from algodon, cotton and polyester textile that are smooth to the touch. Jackets are practical to wear in San Francisco since it doesn't really pour when it rains. An occasional drizzle or mist is all there is so wearing a jacket is better than carrying a bulky umbrella.

ACUPUNCTURE
In Ross ally we discovered a number of acupuncture clinics, too, that offer treatments for almost all types of diseases from cancer to infertility, to erectile dysfunction to migraine. I went twice to see a female Chinese doctor because I needed a treatment to get rid of the ringing inside my ears (a.k.a. “tinnitus”). I was in her clinic for two consecutive mornings. However, instead of availing a service for tinnitus, I ended up having only been given a set of pills and herbal tea to relieve my seasonal coughing (due to pollen). I was told that I could not have the acupuncture treatment yet (in my outer ears and forehead) because my coughing was severe, it could trigger episodes of pain in areas where needles are to be inserted on. So it was hopeless at the moment to have it administered to me. She explained further that she had to get rid first of my cough and then when I am better; I could have the needle treatment. When we were in Chinatown last week, I dare not go there again. It just didn't feel right.

WALKING THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE
Upon my husband’s insistence, four weeks ago while in the city, we went walking along The Golden Gate Bridge with our friends (mother and daughter team) from San Leandro. Our brisk walk was like a 2-mile marathon for me and in the midst of traffic, cold San Francisco weather and late afternoon winter skies; I started to spasm and had thunderbolt pain in my abdomen. The cold sweats were building up in my forehead. I was feeling weak and sick and was passing gas frequently. I thought I would pass out from all the pain I was feeling but I was still conscious! Husband was enveloping me in his arms as we walked together because I have acrophobia. Prior to this, we took the bus from Stockton Street that brought us to the park where we started our walk. I was pretty much okay then so I consented and only started to feel sick at the on set of our walkathon. Being in such sick condition, I wished we brought our van with us and parked it somewhere so in emergencies like this one, we could back off with our plan and just drive back to the hotel. But we went out of whim and missed planning ahead now I just wished we did better than this. After about an hour or two, we finally reached the far end of the famous Golden Gate Bridge. I did sigh a million times, prayed to high heavens to save me from my illness. Finally, we reached the far end of the bridge. Minutes later, I was pacing towards the restroom as I needed to badly relieve myself. Once inside, I rushed to do my business just then, a call came through my cell phone. Husband was calling me and told me to come out immediately because we were getting a lift from a tourist bus driver whose bus was parked at the parking space of the building where we were. As fast as I could, I got out of the loo and almost glided with the hope to be back soonest in the comfort and security of our hotel room.

“Hurry up, a nice man offered us a lift from here to the wharf but we need to move fast! I asked him if he could give me a number to call to avail a cab because you are too weak to walk back from this side of the bridge to the next. He cannot give me a number; mentioned that no cabs pass by here. When he found out how sick you are, he offered help."

Suddenly, my eyes lighted up like the brilliant Christmas lights in December as hope came through, like manna from heaven! And like a flash of lightning, we four were suddenly seated quietly, in the company of the local and foreign tourists inside the bus (I wonder why they were looking at me?).

FISHERMAN’S WHARF
After we got off the bus we walked some more before finally reaching the wharf. At last, we found our stop. But there was a hassle. We needed to meet the husband of our friend who was meeting us near Hilton Hotel, across Ferry Building.

“Bummer," I thought. “I couldn’t take to wait any much longer because I am toosick to wait, too worn out and dehydrated to survive this night of torture.”

I was whinning quietly and pouting, too. I just thought I needed to get resurrected from my present condition so badly that I am ready to metamorphose into an insect like a fly, so I could fly up high, fast and easy and get back to our hotel immediately! I was really, really desperate!

“Let’s go to In And Out Burger. They have a loo there!”

This I suggested immediately.

"I need another round at the loo or I’d mess up the ground!”

I expressed myself clearly that they all agreed. We went to the Inn and Out.

In summary, we had our snacks and I ran fast in that cold, misty evening to the rest room. At last i found my refuge! From there, we took a cable car, walked and met my husband’s buddy, waiting for us by the escalator at the designated location. Together with his wife and kid with us, we all walked towards downtown SFO until we were on Market Street, waited for a cab to no avail. Finally, husband’s buddy decided to speak to the limousine driver who was standing near us; made a deal and in a short while, we were boarding the white stretch limousine. I was grateful for his gesture of getting us a ride ASAP. I know he did it for his family and also for me because I was so sick that evening. He had been so thoughtful. We all appreciated the ride all the way from Market Street to Broadway where our hotel is.

DISCOVERY TIME
When we returned to our room I realized that the culprit of my sufferings was the pill given to me by the Chinese doctor! She didn’t tell me they were l-a-x-a-t-i-v-e. Mamamia! I could chop her to pieces had I known earlier!

CHECKING OUT APARTMENTS
In between eating at different restaurants and checking out shops, we also looked for apartments to rent. So far, we got to see one and it was kind of nice and charming located in Pine Street corner Stockton. The building is next to Notre Dame School and a block close to the Notre Dame Church. It is also in front of the Ritz Hotel. Guess how much is the rent? Very costly.

FULL BODY MASSAGE AND “TIP! TIP! TIP!”
For the Chinese, time is gold. You eat in a restaurant in Chinatown; you pay for the food, not for the ambience and service. Food is excellent and cheap but boy, once you're done, you are literally being kicked in the butt to step outside so new customers could get in. Yes!

At the salon where we had our full body massage, the masseur was screaming,
"Tip! Tip!" after she was done with my massage. The Chinese woman blurted it out bluntly again. "Tip! Tip!" Oh, it was in an irritating tone, so harsh- I wanted to squeeze her neck! In the end, husband and I were pressured to tip her, nonetheless, gave her the $5.00 we had (we had no loose change). Well, come to think of it, five bucks for my tip to that woman was a bit too much considering the fact that I felt sick afterwards! I was dizzy and nauseaus as the massage was only done at my back, we were not told that it was one sided massage only, how could that be? A full body (back) massage? And none to be done for frontal part? They should have said it right, "full body-back side only-massage." Anyhow, I felt dizzy as my head was down on the hole in the Shiatzu massage bed as I was being given the massage for an hour. So imagine how I got dizzy. And then I felt my body was a bit numb after some time because only one side was massaged deeply. So it was Shiat-zu massage that we had but it felt like what I got was Tae-kwando, mamamia, Santa Banana! Anyhow, we were just relieved to leave the place and never had to deal hearing their cantata of "TIP! TIP! TIIIIIIIIIP!!!!" In retrospect, I really didn't like it when I was forced to tip my masseaur since she didn't do a good job and just to shut her up I gave her the money. But husband's masseaur was better. He didn't feel sick like me!

FOOT MASSAGE (Center: moi inside our hotel room)

Next evening, we went for a foot massage at the salon across our hotel. So far this was a bit better since we both had a good nap while we had it. But I had to constantly inform my masseur that the deep massage was not for me and that I wanted a lighter touch. Finally, it was over after thirty minutes.

NOTE: Prelude of the foot spa was the soaking of our tired feet in the spa basin. It was filled with hot water and a tea colored mixture (herb concoction I think). We hope it wasn't any pee of any Chinese there (haha).

It was great to have our feet getting soaked in hot water after several hours of walking. Afterwards, the masseur wiped off the water in our feet with clean towels, laid them down to rest under our feet then she did her trick: "1, 2,3 massage here, there and all over our little toes, big toes, etc., etc." I remember how amused my masseur was, seeing my bunion as she touched them like some sort of an avante garde pieces of sculptures! I smiled but deep down inside, my blood was boiling mad! Hm! She is not even pretty! At least I am (laughs), hahaha, according to moi esposo.Haha! Next, I noticed how titillated my husband's masseur was! Ah, I know why! When husband lifted his jeans and exposed his very hairy legs (he's the hairy type with beard and moustache and a zillion of hair all over his bowh-dee), she giggled in a controlled beat; notwithstanding, she giggled again, thrice, four times and fifth more time- each moment she looked at blue-eyed husband’s face. She bowed and murmured something. What was that? Hm...I think I know (laughs). She imagined how it was like to be with a hairy white man, right? What do you think?

Later back in our hotel, I told moi husband that most female Thai masseurs are like that as well when they are in front of white men. They feel so titillated like they were seeing a new breed of naked creatures! They imagine things, Santa Banana!

Anyhow, husband enjoyed the foot massage and began to snore in the midst of it. So I knew, he was relaxing which was great.

Later, what struck us to be so odd was, the impatience that the Chinese folks do have.

At the salon, right after our foot massage, the woman who did my massage was tapping her table in a very fast and striking speed that was quite annoying to me. We didn't get it that she was trying to signal us to pay ASAP! Gosh, how could we know what she meant? We are not from that place and we are not Chinese! So she did it again, this time in crescendo which really pissed me off. She frowned and said,

"Pay here! Pay here! Pay here!!!!"

And then,

" Tip! Tip! Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiippppppppppppp!!!!"

"Okay, so here we go again," I spoke in singsong while my left eyebrow jumped up in the ceiling.
Hm, so we learned our lesson from the other day. We remember! Husband and I spoke with our eyes. Blue-eyed husband got my signal and decided not to tip. He said,

"No more money for food! We pay only for massage no tip! Here is 50 dollars!"

The Chinese woman argued and said, "No! No! No!!! 60 dollars for half hour foot massage for two!"

Ok so we kept mum and took a deep breath. Husband decided to pay her at once so we could leave at once. Honestly, I was starting to get upset because in the poster they had, it indicated these: "25 dollars for half hour foot massage."

So when pay time came, we were both quite surprised we were over charged by 5 dollars each! It's disgusting when we know upfront we were being cheated. IT was really bad. Hence, we decided not to tip. Besides, husband reiterated these, "Why force me to tip? I would tip if I were happy and impressed with the service. But to be told to tip? No way!"

"There you go!" I was spontaneous to say it. Haha!

Well, we learned the trick! We didn't give them a tip. They cheated us! But we left like winners, yipee! The two women snubbed us but we didn't care. For me they looked like the cubist and abstract paintings of Picasso and Paul Klee. Hahahahaha!!!

COMING HOME
Wellalawell, after staying in the city for six days, it was nice to be back home. We truly missed our bed and our pillows and yes, the old familiar scent of our home. We love it!